Maryland, My Maryland


Marie is cruising! Currently she’s somewhere in her home state of Virginia, knocking out 20+ mile days and shrugging off dayhikers who point out that this or that mountain up ahead is going to be really steep. Fall is here and there is no more beautiful time to hike! I thought I ‘d look back to my last visit with Marie in Southern PA, Maryland and Harper’s Ferry. This happens to be the closest she came to Baltimore, and also it is full of history! So yeah, of course I wasn’t going to miss it.

Everything south of Boiling Springs in Pennsylvania is really great. This part is called the Rock Maze- basically the entire ridge is crowned with giant boulders for miles and miles, and every now and then the AT meanders through them. There are still a lot of rocks underfoot that make the footing tricky, but not near as bad as north of Duncannon. Marie caught on to the fact that I didn’t hike with her at all through the worst part of PA. She’s on to me!

At Pine Grove Furnace State Park is the new Appalachian Trail Museum, which just opened last year. It is small but effective and it is graced with the very same sign that I stood behind on top of Katahdin in 2008! They replace them every 10 years or so, and the weather really does a number on them. It’s a bit like seeing an old friend for me, and I am happy that it has a permanent home so close to Baltimore.

And a sign from Springer Mountain!! Hmmmm is it weird to take a picture with this sign right now?

Pine Grove Furnace marks the approximate midpoint of the trail, (the exact spot marked with a sign a few miles south) and the tradition for thru-hikers is to eat an entire half-gallon of ice cream to celebrate. Southbounders are at a disadvantage because the store is only open weekends after labor day, but luckily Marie’s timing was good and it was a Saturday. Now, we had just received trail magic from a wonderful couple who live nearby, who are former thru-hikers. They took us to their house and let us shower and do laundry and fed us burgers. Marie had plenty of time to contemplate what was about to happen at the general store.

Neapolitan, a great strategy! Being a good sport, I ate some ice cream too. About a cup's worth.

Nutrition Facts! 16 servings per box. 120 calories per serving, or 1,920 calories.

She put forth a very valiant effort, but in the end was defeated by the 1/2 gallon of ice cream. To be fair, it was not very good ice cream at all, and it wasn’t all that warm out. But she did some serious damage, eating 1/2 of 1/2 of a gallon!

There was a very nice lady named Barb who ran the general store, and she was very encouraging the whole time. She must have seen thousands of thru-hikers succeed or fail at eating way too much ice cream. Afterwards we were both hungry, so we ordered some cheeseburgers.

The long awaited halfway point! Marie has walked 1,090.5 miles from Mt. Katahdin, and just as many to go!

Pennsylvania still has some rocks in store

We were soon immersed into the most colorful world of yellows and oranges and reds. Every so often you would be struck anew at the beauty that you just have to stop and take it in. It doesn’t get much better!

This shelter has two shelters, because there are two kinds of hikers.

Don't encourage it, Pippin!

At long last, Marie has crossed into the South! She’s home! Now are those who would argue that Maryland is not the South. I wouldn’t disagree, however it is definitely not the North either. And for a Southbounder there is no greater landmark than getting out of Yankee territory. There was a great entry in one of the journals by a thru-hiker that read something like, [When the last Northbounder has crossed into Pennsylvania, and the last Southbounder has crossed into Maryland, then all will be right with the world.] Being Marylanders, we sung a rousing verse or three of Maryland, My Maryland, our state song. It is probably the strangest state song of them all, as it was a ballad written by a Louisiana man in 1861, pleading Maryland to join the Confederate cause. Robert E. Lee’s troops could be heard singing it both during the 1862 Maryland campaign and the 1863 Gettysburg campaign. Maryland never left the union however, thanks to Lincoln having several of it’s secessionist legislators locked up. Here’s some of the best parts of the song:

I

The despot’s heel is on thy shore,
Maryland! My Maryland!
His torch is at thy temple door,
Maryland! My Maryland!
Avenge the patriotic gore
That flecked the streets of Baltimore,
And be the battle queen of yore,
Maryland! My Maryland!

VIII

Thou wilt not yield the Vandal toll,
Maryland! My Maryland!
Thou wilt not crook to his control,
Maryland! My Maryland!
Better the fire upon thee roll,
Better the blade, the shot, the bowl,
Than crucifixion of the soul,
Maryland! My Maryland!

IX

I hear the distant thunder-hum,
Maryland! My Maryland!
The Old Line‘s bugle, fife, and drum,
Maryland! My Maryland!
She is not dead, nor deaf, nor dumb-
Huzza! she spurns the Northern scum!
She breathes! she burns! she’ll come! she’ll come!
Maryland! My Maryland!

I think most people find the song bizarre, but being a history nerd, and doing my best to convert Marie into one, I think there is no better song than one that lives so completely in a bygone era.

Maryland has rocks too, they are just more beautiful.

Maryland brings a little bit of Baltimore to the trail!

Raven Rocks

A very good portion of the trail in Maryland is on this old road, and nearly perfectly flat. A lot of history happened along here. The battle of South Mountain in 1862 was fought in three places right along this ridge, and there are countless old settlements, furnaces, charcoal pits, kilns and stone walls still visible.

We decided to treat ourselves to a very fine dinner at the Old South Mountain Inn, a fine dining restaurant dating back to 1732 as a tavern. Walking in soaking wet and stinking to high heaven presents a challenge for both us and the restaurant, but they handled it gracefully and we got the entire sun room all to ourselves. Marie ordered the quail, of course. We took the leftover wine to go!

I had no idea she had her own Brigade! This is at Crampton’s Gap, where the Union Army smashed through at the battle of South Mountain.

The War Corrospondent’s Memorial at Crampton’s Gap.

The C&O Canal, and the last few miles of Maryland. Strangely enough these were the hardest miles of the day, as the crushed gravel path is very unforgiving on the feet. I got blisters for the first time in a very long time, as it had been raining for several days in a row.

The Potomac!!

She was floating on a cloud walking across this bridge into Harper’s Ferry, West Virginia. It is called the psychological halfway point, as it carries more significance in the mind than a sign post. It is also home to the Appalachian Trail Conservancy headquarters, the John Brown raid, it’s where Meriwether Lewis got supplies for his expedition, and used to be home to the federal arsenal. And it is absolutely gorgeous!

The Appalachian Trail Conservancy is the headquarters for the entire trail, and it is where thru-hikers get their official picture taken and a record is made of their hike. You can go there today and see that Marie was Southbounder #112 to come through this year!

St. Peter's Roman Catholic Church

From Jefferson Rock

“The passage of the Patowmac through the Blue Ridge is perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in Nature. You stand on a very high point of land. On your right comes up the Shenandoah, having ranged along the foot of the mountain a hundred miles to seek a vent. On your left approaches the Patowmac in quest of a passage also. In the moment of their junction they rush together against the mountain, rend it asunder and pass off to the sea. … For the mountains being cloven asunder, she presents to your eye, through the cleft, a small catch of smooth blue horizon, at an infinite distance in that plain country, inviting you, as it were, from the riot and tumult roaring around to pass through the breach and participate in the calm below. Here the eye ultimately composes itself; and that way, too, the road happens actually to lead. You cross the Patowmac above the junction, pass along its side through the base of the mountain for three miles, the terrible precipice hanging in fragments over you, and within about 20 miles reach Frederictown and the fine country around that. This scene is worth a voyage across the Atlantic.”

– Thomas Jefferson, writing about this very spot from his visit in 1783.

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5 responses to “Maryland, My Maryland

  1. Soooooo many smiles from Marie! She makes it look super easy. I can’t believe you’re half way! And eating some great kai (food) along the way. Mmmm mmmm, I think you’re eating better than us and we have a permanent roof over our heads. Kia kaha, my girl! xxxx love A n J

  2. and the leaves are just as gorgeous as you said they would be. I can’t imagine what it’s like to be there in real life if that’s what the photos look like. What an awesome greeting from fall.

  3. loved this post! love the enthusiasm and delight from both of you 🙂 and i agree w/ Annabel…loads of smiles from Marie…could have had something to do w/ her sweet companion….keep it up, Bobwhite! you’re doing great! enjoy the beauty of fall while you can! 🙂

  4. Yay! What a beautiful, continuing journey and how wonderful to be back in familiar territory. I can’t believe it! This has definitely been a Jeff post- I enjoyed the history asides.

    Joc

  5. Congratulations on your amazing journey Marie. Love the pictures especially of you smiling – you do make it look so easy. The pictures are beautiful Jeff –

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